Monday, July 30, 2018

Winter wonderlands

Lying down on the firm bed in my room I think of the dream-like vacation that was.
Flying over ranges and ranges of mountains that looked in some parts like brownie coated with icing dust, we descended down into heavenly Queenstown, a town befitting its name. The chill in the air despite sunshine made it clear why Auckland winter is considered tropical. Sorting ourselves with rental car, we drove into the city centre. Some towns have a certain obvious vibe to them, Queenstown's is most certainly adventure and holiday. As if it says you will not be the same when you leave this place. Yummy thai lunch and a stroll along the lake front later we checked into a hotel- the first in years! Whenever we've stayed out of town, its mostly been baches, airbnbs, holiday homes and the like. Where there is a kitchen, separate rooms, hopefully a bookshelf and it also means cooking a meal or 2 at home, cleaning up before checking out etc. This always makes us feel like we are doing more of the same on vacation, so Prash decided we need to stay in a hotel n not do any regular chores given how much we've been worn down doing it for half an year without a break.
The apple trees in the garden, the postcard like view of lake wakatipu and the towering remarkables ranges, clean sheets and a cosy warm room. Could not have asked for more!
Our holidays are generally packed with activities am to pm to maximise our experience of anything and everything a place we visit has to offer. This time, we had a couple of things to do and no specific plan as it all depended on weather. A part of me was ready to sit in the room/garden, stare outside and read a book/play indoor games and drink coffee/wine for all 5 days. Luck though had different plans.
We unpacked, and shook the apple tree for snacking on fresh-as-they-can-get apples and started driving down to Glenorchy on what's touted as one of the most scenic drives one can go on. In 15 min, it was clear why. The mountains so huge that their vastness is incomprehensible.... That u r driving at 100kmph n the view of the mountain seems to change in ultra slow mo speed..... that planes carrying over 100 ppl seem like a white seagull .. tiny against the backdrop of the mountains.Everywhere I turn was a postcard of nature. White sheep on Green grass, blue lake, white snowy on top- brown dry at the base hills and all of this mirroring onto the still lake.
We were too late for kayaking but visited historically significant places -a boatshed from the 1800s and such and drove further down along rural roads where we saw cars/ppl/farms occasionally. It started to feel like an escape. We spotted a waterfall that looked like ones in depiction of paradises. long white straight veil of falls with that pleasant constant sound that only water hitting relentlessly against rocks can make.Every time we saw someone riding a horse, Prash kept saying we should move here esp camp Glenorchy where every house is trying to be n is very close to zero impact to environs. Loosing our way and having no GPS support would normally cause one of us to complain,but not that evening. We made our way to Kinloch. Sitting for half an hour at Kinloch Lodge has got to be one of the memorable moments of life. The ambiance of warm wood fire place, the French waitress serving mulled warm spiced wine, the view of the snowy mountains outside in that baby blue/pink light at dusk and the crisp chill in the air outside, the old timer saws & fishing rods on the walls, tea pots in the big wooden almirah, all atleast from a 100 years ago, the slow music with that deep voice set at perfect volume, made us forget where we were. It felt like we had traveled back atleast a century.
Next day morning buffet breakfast had K all excited. She self-taught how to work the coffee machine n made us both long blacks and got herself hot chocolates. A thing she loved to do every morning for the rest of the holiday. The plan for the day was to go to the ski fields. I imagined i would go on a few toboggan rides, help build a snowman and then sit in the mountain top cafe and enjoy the benefits of living in this time and age where comfort of coffee and food can be had at that height. Before heading off to the ski fields we went to town to check out ski-hires. The sight of it all was enough to tempt me and prash to get gear for ourselves too ! The monster sized heavy boots, long ski and poles and pants later we we're thrilled to start the day.  Watching a falcon pecking on a roadkill possum for breakfast and a seagull scooping up fish from the lake with hope beaming out of our eyes like the rays of warm sun we set off to The Remarkables. Wowing at the sights and stopping for a pic more than once we felt like nature's display kept unfurling at every turn. 
Skiing: K and I took lessons with separate groups while Prash somehow miraculously learnt to stop,start and move in those skis by himself. My lessons were frustrating to start with. My legs just had forgotten to follow what my brain instructed them to do. Walk parallely sideways the instructor would say to me and me to my legs but they would just slide downnnnnn. I fell down a few times, once on a slope and had to be man-lifted literally by a kind fellow far more superiorly skilled skier.
Embarrassment and shame somehow seemed to have no place and once I got a hang on leaning forward and letting gravity do its thing, it changed from frustration to fun. Driving down the mountain passing from one carpark to another the ppl and their lone cars parked at the edge of cliffs like in advertisements for SUVs. The spectacular sunset and the hues it painted on the sky are something neither my camera could capture nor my words can describe.
An unexpected adventure of skiing had us going back for more the next day. We split the day in 2 sessions. The first half was more lessons for K while we both did our own thing and tried not to fall flat on our faces. The second half was all of us going up and down the ski-ramp rightly called the magical carpet and skiing down the beginners slopes. We must have gone up and down close to 40 times and when they closed the ski-field at the end of the day we felt a true sense of joy. The one that comes with letting go of being held back, one that comes with thrill of learning a new skill. Standing at the top of the slope you look around at the glistening white snow on one mountain, on another powdery snow on which there is the shadow of moving clouds. Fill your lungs with the freshest air there is, smile and push the poles crushing into the snow next to your skies. Next moment u propel urself leaning forward and keep ur head up..you feel like a child coming down a slide, you feel like you are sitting in a water slide and then u bend ur knees and point ur poles backwards...letting only the skies glide u downwards like a bird and immerse urself completely in that experience. Once u come down, you know why you cant stop urself from going back up again :)
Next morning after  Lo mein n cupcakes for breakfast, we went to Arrowtown. Idyllic river and colorful leaves on trees. It was the peak of winter and there were autumn colored leaves still, I can only imagine how amazing this must be in Autumn. Reading stories of gold panning in the river and the life of early settlers in this area, we ate copious amounts of chocolates and waited for the bike rentals to open. Half a day of trail biking seemed like a great idea and we peddled our way up and down the first few trails. The icy blue, cobalt blue from glacier water, streams from snow-melts all creating different colors and different sounds kept us going. The uphills started getting tricky for k and me. We both simply got off the bike and pushed the bike and continued onwards stopping to marvel at the berry trails and beautiful bridges along the way. It started raining and temperature started dropping close to zero.So we wisely decided to head back and did about 18k cycling in all.
We went back to the hotel, played silly games, read books, went to the spa and sauna and called it a day. Staying just a couple of hours away from such getaways to natural paradises makes me feel immensely lucky and want more of it!

Tuesday, January 30, 2018

Holidays in Bangalore

Like the wave that sweeps away the sand beneath my feet, making the ground below shaky, the realization that holidays are over shakes me up. As unfair as it is to compare the daily work-home-parenting routine here to the carefree-no routine pampered holidays at Bangalore, I cant help but long for it and regret the end of yet another vacation. I go back to being my parents' child for a month every year. These holidays make me feel younger ...a self that was capable of a lot of things. Like sleeping through sunny afternoons after a heavy homemade lunch. Like being lost in thoughts n gazing into distance for hours to no end. Like talking late into the night about nothing specifically but everything in general. My reluctance to grow up seeps into me as soon as I see them n I transform into being dependent on mom n dad for everything. Somehow wishing that my hesitation to not do things I did not do as a child, wishing that going back to my old habits would keep us all young as years pass. *sigh*
I try and list the things we did and felt this time:

Mysore:
This city evokes a regal sense of timelessness every time we visit. The idea was to spend a day travelling with parents and show K a new city/experience. The stop at Ranganathittu was dad's reco though we were not sure of migration season etc so had no hopes of seeing any birds. Bro and I ended up realizing that the beautiful trail on which we had all run the kaveri trail marathon a few years ago was right next to the bird sanctuary. We saw a huge crowd get down from school and college buses filled with loud laughter and silly banter and raced past them in order to avoid standing in queues for the boating. We chose to wear life jackets which we fished out from a pile stacked up without any order of sizes and hopped onto the boat. One guy did the both the jobs of rowing and acting as a guide identifying the birds. To our surprise we saw a variety of birds : spoon bills, cormorants, Ibis, pelicans and the one that we all liked best - painted storks. Also wading along and lying on the rocks were a lot of marsh crocodiles! After the boat ride and climbing up to view more of the same, we sat down to snack on mom's ellu, chakli etc. A squirrel that looked at us curiously joined in and happily munched on peanuts and pieces of jaggery. K and dad went crazy feeding it while i took as many photos to capture that moment, one such where mom/dad become the same age and show the same curiosity as her. We have taken a tour of the Mysore palace many times before and each time it gets more and more unbelievable that someday in the past, someone called this place their home. What was interesting and new this time was an app pinakin on which we could listen to the audio guide. Quickly downloaded it and listened to the glorious awe-inducing stories of bravery and grandeur. The new facts we learn each time like how this was the first building to get electricity as an electric chandelier from abroad had to be hung. How the prints of the photographs came all the way from England as there were no places to develop the photos taken here etc. fascinating really. we took our time to walk through the very small part of the palace where ppl are allowed, took a few photos and admired at the artistic extravaganza that this palace signifies. KRS at evening evokes so many memories of childhood. The magic of the musical fountain is long gone and the entrance commercialized with vendors selling the usual junk. The dam though, is a thing to marvel at. how in that time and age did one conceive of this idea and how-ever did they manage to actually build it to last. Beautiful really the pink sunset and perfectly formed flock of white birds heading home. K was not impressed with the crowd, heat or walking about in both. Eating ice creams to chill, we called it a day. Next morning we drove to the top of Chamundi hills, more a customary visit and my over-enthusiasm to show mahishasura and nandi to k. She did not think former was scary and commented that the latter lacked iris. Eye-rolls at trying to impress an 8-yr old! But hey am never the one to give up so we went to look at sand sculptures and mirror mazes both slightly more interesting for her and finally the zoo. Drinking copious amounts of water, we were there to watch tigers mainly but got to see giraffes, lions, cheetahs, elephants and a host of colorful birds. Nothing off-putting like our visit to Bannerghatta from last year. Despite having a slight tummy upset, the palate would not relent and we went looking for famous Mylari hotel dose for lunch. It tasted good and we all ate more than we thought or should have. Hygiene though...close ur eyes while u savor these pls! Visiting relatives who mean well is always a pleasant experience. Viewing the Mysore palace lit up at night is a must-see. We hurried and secured spots on the lawn and observed the sky turn the lightest blue and pink. The 1000s of light-bulbs lining the palace walls, which we don't notice while walking about in the day, come alive in that aha-moment. We looked at it mesmerized for a few minutes and heard the police band play a few instrumental songs and came back home stopping at the usual place for dinner.

Bangalore:
I really cherished early morning temple visits with mom, where the bedrock of trust is the idol made of stone that almost comes alive as the prayers and shlokas reach a crescendo at aarathi.
On the other hand, truly a sign of progress for the city was the Metro! We went on it more than a few times and appreciated it. Mom was so proud and upbeat about showing it to me.'See I told u, its just like the one we went on in Paris. See this, see that..':) I wish they would add more routes and bogis soon and catch up with the growing demands. Other than that, the rubbish on streets, more than essential cars, ever increasing indifference towards other ppl, the quality of uber/app-based taxis are all on my crib-list. The city I can never decide if I love to leave behind or live in. Prash asks me on the way back from airport, 'so whatsay? ready to move back to Bangalore?' I can manage a hardly audible selfish response 'not if either of us has to commute to work, not till k goes off to uni'

Culture vulture:
Watching nightlong performance of malegalalli Madhumagalu at NSD/kalaagraama with mom n dodamma was an unforgettable experience.Enacting the epic drama across 4 open air theaters, keeping us audience entertained and engaged for 9 hours through the night was no mean feat. The story as tragic and disturbing as it was, the theme of it (roughly translating to 'no one here is important or unimportant') is going to stay with me for a long time. We also watched ashtavakra puppet show modernized with songs and narratives to address the little ones in the audience. Fish tree moon at Rangashankara was another kids' drama we took k to. She liked the songs and dances at the performance though my intention was for her to get the concepts of friendship/trust/will of the mind. In this trip, I also got a bit of understanding into differentiating art vs entertainment. Between captivating performers and whimsical artists. Between a nataka and ranga prayoga( a drama vs a theatrical experiment).

K also read a large number of books much to everyone's surprise...We had to go book shopping more than a couple of times to keep her busy.During one such expedition, she and I decided to drink the very-famous dry fruit milkshake and laughed at the uselessness of the straw to drink(eat?) it at shiv sagar. Mom, dad, k and I went to watch shows at Planetarium and Indira Gandhi musical fountain.Its so under-sold, all these inner-city places to entertain kids!

People:
We also spent a day in the village and took k to the mango farm we went to as kids.The saturday evening hanuman temple bhajane and when they sang aatmaraama ananda ramana, she was more than thrilled to fit in and clap and sing along. Catching up with the entire clan for that duration was a feel-good activity. This time we also did a lot of house-visits and ate till they felt it was enough to justify their love and affection. The variety of the spreads on the table, the warmth in their handshakes and hugs left me teary-eyed. Once a year, it feels really good to be cared for this way. Apart from the inner circle of family, catching up with friends that make so much time for one is always soul-soothing activity. Grateful to those that made such possible!

Food:
We ate out at the usual CTR, vidhyarthi bhavan, Raghavendra stores, MTR, Indian/Italian restaurants at malls. We also had last minute panic realisation of not eating bakery puff!! surely they would not let me board my flight back if they realised this miss and so we got parcels and I ate more than I should have, given the condition of my throat on our last evening there. Toast and Tonic was a really good place with innovative menu - a tasty mix of old world ingredients in new world recipes. The taste and texture of the jaggery dessert remains. So does the longing for the company of bro and SIL which could have been the main reason in the first place to make it such a fun outing.

Runs and yoga classes were a few this time and without any routine. The sunrises and flock of pigeons and ducks over sankey tank, fresh air and sound of crushing dried leaves at cubbon park always remain beautiful. I tried anti-gravity yoga and felt it was ok-ish, which could be due to my reluctance to using props (hammock in this case) for yoga. Was a tick on my list though.

And it was here already!!!! the end of a few beautiful weeks, bringing with it the turmoil of saying goodbyes to parents and sadness that no words can describe, making the heart so heavy that nothing can move it. Drenching one in tears that flood through like a monsoon rain... expected, known, uncontrolled and sudden. Like actors moving to a different scene, K n I were all by ourselves sitting in a random airport, watching flights takeoff and land. She looks at me and we both cry hugging each other and telling each other that we will be ok and she says "Amma, I really wish the Earth was still 1 piece without any seas. Then it would have been much much smaller n we would have reached NZ and Pachi much much faster" and I nod in agreement.

Till next visit!:)